Mid-summer pool care involves working through vacations, hot weather, heavy pool use, and the hustle and bustle of life. Unfortunately, many people look at their pool and say, “hey, the water looks great!” Then they wonder why in just a couple of days they are dealing with cloudy water, algae, and other pool water care issues.
Whether the pool is residential or commercial, water care must be constant. If care is not consistent, the pool can quickly go from bright blue to dull and cloudy or worse, sometimes in a matter of hours. What are the contributing factors in causing these changes? There are many. Here are the most common.
Heavy bather loads cause pool sanitizer to deplete more quickly. If the pool owner is expecting a party or a large number of additional swimmers, it would be a good idea to flush or superchlorinate the pool about 6 hours BEFORE the party. The slightly higher level of sanitizer (in this case, chlorine) will run out over the course of the party. After the party, consider crashing again to remove swimmer debris (sweatshirts, urine, body lotion, etc.) left by partygoers. A maintenance dose of algaecide will also help.
Bathing lake. Yes, lack of bathers. When a pool is not in use, it eliminates a great way of “natural” brushing and cleaning of pool surfaces and the better circulation that swimmers bring to the pool. The “dead spots” of poor water circulation become alive. Even just one swimmer a day splashing around for 30 minutes can make the difference between sparkling water and cloudy water.
Summer temperatures mean much higher water temperatures. Keep in mind that for every 10 degree rise in pool water temperature, chlorine usage will double. In other words, if your 15,000-gallon pool typically uses about 1 pound of slow-dissolving trichlor bars or tablets each week at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, when the water temperature rises to a really comfortable 85 degrees, you’ll now be using 2 pounds of chlorine to maintain the same level of disinfectant.
Lack of a good and consistent pool water care program. The best way to keep a pool sparkling blue is to add shock and algaecide weekly. The customers we see in our store who have the most frequent problems with algae or cloudy water are those who only add shock and algaecide when the pool is opened or when they have problems. At that point, it can easily cost double or triple what a normal program would cost them. Not to mention the downtime and the “Dad, when can we use the pool again?” question. A typical maintenance schedule for a 10,000 gallon pool would be 1 pound of granular calcium hypochlorite per week followed by a maintenance dose of a good quality algaecide the next morning. When you’re rocking the pool, don’t skimp. It’s always better to add a little more (ie a 14,000 gallon pool should use a full 2 pounds of buffer instead of 1.4 pounds). If you’re expecting a party, follow our tips above. It’s also a good idea to have some “surprise party” available, in case unexpected company shows up. Party shocks are great because you can add them to the pool and then resume swimming in about 15 minutes. Your pool gets the added boost of sanitizer to handle the increased number of swimmers and chances are your pool will look pretty good once everyone is gone!
Keep your pool water properly balanced. I can’t tell you how many people just don’t test their pool water. I’m sorry to say, but the water balance cannot be seen. You have to try it. When the water is in balance, its sanitizer works more efficiently and effectively, swimmers’ eyes and skin are not irritated, and pool equipment (filter, pump, heater, etc.) – are damaged by corrosion or peeling. All it takes is a few minutes to take the test at home. But be precise. Don’t settle for being close to the range! Better yet, find a well-qualified local pool store with a computerized analysis center AND someone who knows pool water chemistry and can ask the right questions. The water balance is simple, pH 7.4 – 7.6, Total Alkalinity 100 – 140 ppm, Calcium Hardness around 200 – 250 ppm. Each of these factors are interrelated. If your pH is constantly changing, you can be sure the total alkalinity is LOW causing a “pH bounce”. If you notice that the water becomes cloudier as the temperature increases and you use calcium hypochlorite as a regular sanitizing product, you can be sure that the calcium hardness is high and, for the most part, the pH and total alkalinity as well. They are tall. If the water is “crystal clear” but your blonde-haired kids are coming out with the latest green hairstyle, the pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness are all too low.
Solar blankets are a constant source of bacteria and algae. Sun blankets should be chemically cleaned properly and thoroughly at least 2 times during the bathing season. Many pool water quality problems are the result of “biofilms” of algae and bacteria growing on the water side of the solar blanket. You don’t even know they’re there until you feel a bit of slime. That’s all it takes to start a pool mess that could be a big mess and clean up. Instead, consider using one of the many “chemical” sun blankets like the Ecosavr or Tropical Fish sun blankets. They are up to 75% more effective than a traditional sun blanket and you don’t have to worry about cleaning or removing and storing them.
Finally, a dirty filter can contribute to pool problems. Whether your pool is equipped with a sand, cartridge, or diatomaceous earth (DE) filter, give it a proper CHEMICAL cleaning. Don’t just backwash or hose down the grates. A good filter cleaner will remove built-up greases, oils and lotions and help restore filter efficiency. Look at it this way. Would you rinse dirty clothes or wash them with the right detergent? The same goes for your filter. Chemical cleaning of DE and cartridge filters also extends the life of the filter media.
If you’re having pool problems this summer, it’s worth talking to an expert. Otherwise, you risk spending a lot of money treating the symptoms of the problems instead of the root cause of the water problem.
