At first glance, rock climbing in Kentucky may seem like a far-fetched idea. Unlike! Red River Gorge offers excellent rock climbing areas in KY.
Rock Climbing in Kentucky
Located in the Daniel Boone National Forest, the Red River Gorge metropolitan area is over 26,000 acres. The Red River runs for approximately 20 miles through the area. The area around the river is full of rock climbing opportunities with multi-pitch walls, boulders and climbing roofs to test your vertical technique. Red River Gorge can be reached by car in about an hour from Lexington, Ky. There are plenty of trails and campsites in the area, so you can make a weekend of your trip.
Rock climbing is allowed in most of the gorge, but some areas are prohibited. You can ask the rangers for a list, but you generally can’t go up or down any of the arches. Also, all routes are pre-established and climbers are prohibited from starting new routes without first obtaining permission from the rangers. I’m sorry for the disappointment, but you don’t want to get arrested.
When rock climbing in Red River Gorge, there are a few areas that get universal approval. For traditional climbing, the following areas receive approval:
1. Pebble beach
2. Bridge of Heaven Ridge
3. Strength
4. Long wall
All of these areas have epic climbing routes rated well above five.
Sport climbing presents an entirely different challenge and the Red River Gorge area meets it. The main areas include:
1. Global Village with multiple climbs
2. Military wall
3. Rock on the road
4. Pebble beach
5. Bridge of Heaven Ridge
If you’re new to the area, the two best places to visit are Pebble Beach and Sky Bridge Ridge. Each offers a variety of climbs, giving you the best opportunity to test your technique and take on some challenges.
There are other areas in Kentucky that offer solid rock climbing. Red River Gorge, however, is king of the mountain when it comes to rock climbing areas in KY.
